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Editor’s note: This functional textile encyclopedia column is contributed by “Hiking Note” and “BenQ Materials Xpore.” We will invite experts from all areas to share the latest textile technologies. Following is an edited oral record from our guest, Mr. Rex Lee, Director of BenQ Materials’ Performance Textile Business Development Department.

▲Mr. Rex Lee, Director of BenQ Materials’ Performance Textile Business Development Department.

Taiwan’s mountains and forests are rainy and wet, and the weather changes rapidly regardless of the forecast; an excellent waterproof jacket has become essential gear for mountain climbing. There are hundreds of waterproof jackets on the market, how do we choose the right one that suits us? Is the higher the waterproof rating, the better? Why do some products leak after a period of use? This column will explain the science of waterproofing to understand the waterproof classification and the three tips for selecting a good waterproof jacket.

 

Tip One: Do you know “waterproof and permeable” has different applications than “waterproof and breathable?”

The jacket is waterproof because there is a waterproof membrane between the outer and inner layers of the fabric to prevent rainwater from penetrating. The waterproof membrane’s technology includes a “hydrophilic non-porous membrane” with moisture permeability and a “hydrophobic porous membrane” with air permeability for different environments.

 

• • Permeable function | Hydrophilic non-porous membrane
• The hydrophilic non-porous membrane has no holes on the surface, so rainwater cannot penetrate the outer layer into the inner fabric. The membrane can absorb our sweat from exercise and slowly “evaporate the moisture” through the membrane to adjust the humidity inside our cloth. Since this kind of membrane can only evaporate moisture and cannot dissipate our body heat, it’s more suitable for low-intensity leisure activities. For high-intensity exercises, the rate of its moisture evaporation may not be fast enough to catch up with our sweating, and it may cause the dilemma of “heavy rain outside and light rain inside our cloth.” With the heat and the moisture, you will feel uncomfortable wearing it.

▲Waterproof and permeable – moisture can slowly evaporate through the membrane, but the air cannot pass through

 

• Breathable function | Hydrophobic porous membrane

Hydrophobic porous membrane has nano-pores, and they are smaller than water droplets and larger than water vapor; therefore, rain cannot penetrate the outer layer to the inside, and the moisture generated inside can be discharged to the outside through these pores. With the help of some air ventilation to speed up the exchange, this membrane can achieve actual ventilation. Xpore and Gore-tex use this membrane technology to make cloth for high-intensity exercise to keep us dry and comfortable.

▲Waterproof and breathable – The nano-pores can discharge moisture and exchange airflow.

 

The first tip of selecting a waterproof jacket is to know in what application I am going to wear it. Is it for leisure activities? Or will it be used in heavy exercise where I will sweat a lot? This way, you can select the product that suits you best from the jacket’s different membrane technologies in the first pass.

 

Tip 2: Did you know the durability of the “two-layered cloth” and the “three-layered cloth” is different?

A waterproof jacket is a combination of three-layered cloth (also known as 3L) of “surface fabric,” “waterproof membrane,” and “base fabric.” Hiking and cross-country running has become popular in recent years. For a lightweight option of these relatively simple activities, many two-layered (also known as 2L) laminated jackets have been made recently with just “outer fabrics” plus “waterproof membrane.” They are lighter, thinner, and more breathable, but they are not as durable in abrasion resistance and unsuitable for heavy activities.

Although hiking in the suburbs and polar climbing are outdoor sports, their clothing strength requirements are entirely different. In addition to the number of layers, the jacket needs to be matched with the corresponding surface/base fabric to be the best solution for different environments. Each brand has its classification, and it’s a good idea to study the applications before purchase. Take Xpore as an example; it provides three different levels for product classification.

• Xtreme series: a high-performance with high abrasion resistance fabric product. Suitable for extreme outdoor sports.

• Xtra series: urban leisure products for comfort with natural fabrics (wool/cotton/silk).

• Xcellent series: health protection products with an upgraded waterproof membrane. Suitable for hospital protective clothing and other purposes.

Therefore, the second pass of choosing a waterproof jacket is to know the jacket’s fabric strength and the number of layers that will suit your travel needs.

 

Tip 3: Choose the appropriate waterproof rating and water repellent treatment

The outdoor weather is unpredictable; therefore, a waterproof jacket must be able to deal with extreme weather to give you the best protection. The water pressure of light rain is about 500–1,000mm, and the water pressure of heavy rain is about 5,000–6,000mm. In super heavy rain, the water pressure may reach 8,000–10,000mm, equivalent to standing under a waterfall or being sprayed by a fire-fighting hose. Most waterproof jackets use 10,000mm as the base for “waterproof rating,” the higher the rating, the stronger the water pressure resistance. Xpore fabrics use 15,000mm as the low standard.

▲The quality control engineer of the Xpore laboratory is testing the water pressure resistance of the fabric

 

The outer fabric of a good waterproof jacket usually has a water repellent treatment (Durable Water Repellent/DWR). This treatment allows raindrops that fall on the outer layer to form water droplets and quickly fall off, so the outer fabric won’t become heavy by absorbing the water that stays for too long. Since DWR is a coating process technology for fabrics, it will lose effectiveness after washing. When you feel the waterproof jacket is getting heavier after the rain and it feels wet to the touch, rest assured that it doesn’t mean it is not waterproof anymore, but that the water-repellent function has diminished; all you have to do is to buy a can of water-repellent spray and reinforce it.

▲DWR water repellent function can make raindrops falling on the outer fabric form water droplets and fall off quickly (picture/123rf)

 

Extra Tip: Why is the price difference of waterproof jackets so significant? How do I take care of my jacket?

After mastering the above three tips, you have the basics to purchase a waterproof jacket. Choose waterproof membrane technology (waterproof and breathable membrane for outdoor sports, where our sweat can discharge quickly compared to the moisture-permeable membrane), choose the right fabric strength, match the proper waterproof rating, and you can find the product you need.  At the end of this column, I will answer two more questions from mountaineers who often purchase waterproof jackets: Why are some brands quite expensive and some relatively cheap? What should I do to take care of and extend my expensive waterproof jacket’s life?

 

• Let’s talk about the price difference of waterproof jackets first.

Other than advertising and licensing fees, waterproof technology, design details, and the figure of the extreme environment performances will directly reflect the price. The higher standards the manufacturer demands usually mean higher prices. You get what you pay for. A product needs to pass many tests before going to the market. Take Xpore for example; their products must pass five tests: water pressure resistance, moisture permeability, air permeability, separation strength, and washing before shipment. It will not be a perfect waterproof product if it fails any tests. For example, some mountaineers’ jackets will start to leak after a few years of wearing them. It’s not because there’s a problem with the waterproof rating but because the waterproof fabric’s “separation strength” is not good enough. The fabric of the waterproof jacket is glued to the waterproof membrane. If the adhesion is not good enough, pulling and washing may cause the bond to separate and lose the waterproof function.
One important feature of outerwear design is to look beautiful, but it also needs to be practical and waterproof. A good waterproof jacket usually has Velcro or straps on the wrists and hem, so you can tighten them in heavy rain to reduce rainwater coming inside. Xpore’s wind and rain laboratory found that some jackets’ pockets accumulate water during tests for clients. After inspection, they found out the improper angle of the pocket design was why water got in.

▲Xpore’s wind and rain laboratory can set different levels of wind and rain simulations to test the product performance.

 

• Proper cleaning and maintenance can make your waterproof jacket last longer.

The weather in Taiwan is hot and humid. People often sweat a lot while mountain climbing; sweat, grease, or dirt will usually stain our jackets after the climb; we must adequately clean the jacket, or these substances will clog the nano-pores and reduce breathability. Although most waterproof jackets are labeled machine washable, we recommend hand washing if the jacket is not as dirty. Soak the jacket in clean water and then wash it with a special cleaner, emphasizing more soiled parts. After washing, all you need is a light spin cycle before drying. Do not use any fabric softener for its resin content will also clog the nano-pores.
It is a misconception that people think washing the jacket frequently will decrease its waterproof performance. Washing does not affect the waterproof rating, but only the water repellent will decrease its function; some water repellent spray can easily reinforce it. So don’t worry; you can clean your waterproof jacket regularly to extend its lifespan.

 

Interviewee

Mr. Rex Lee, Director of BenQ Materials’ Performance Textile Business Development Department.
Mount Qilai South Peak is the most impressive mountain from the classic one hundred peaks route.

He saw the unforgettable golden grassland scenery when climbing to the top under the rising sun.

 

Sustainable Fabrics Encyclopedia

Xpore specializes in nano-membrane technology, providing sustainable, high-performance waterproof and breathable fabrics. From membrane, glue, to laminating technology, are all completed in its factory and it can produce high-quality customized materials to meet clients’ needs. It is free of fluorine and solvents with zero pollution, no harm to humans or the environment; its products are suitable for outdoor exploration, urban applications, medical protection, and other applications.

Source: (Chinese) https://hiking.biji.co/index.php?q=news&act=info&id=21445

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